YOU ASKED. WE ANSWERED. Get the full scoop and all your questions answered about our new Plano gym.
First, let’s talk about the sheer magnitude of this gym. I’m talking 32,000 square feet of gym (for scale - that’s about 4x the size of our Carrollton gym), the tallest walls peak at 58 feet (again, for reference - about 20 feet taller than the walls at all of our other gyms!), and it is one of only three gyms in the WORLD to feature a 4-lane speed wall. Already impressed? (Us too!) We also custom-built rooms for TRX, yoga, cardio, and even carved out a section of our gym that’s just for kids.
Check out answers to ALL of your questions from our Plano #AMA. Have any more questions? Drop us a comment below!
I introduce to you, your #AMA Panel:
Brian Seale, Assistant Director of Route-setting
Hunter Nelson, Fitness Manager of Plano
David Michener, General Manager of Plano
Picture credit: Tariq Lea
For all things ROUTE-SETTING and wall-related:
How do you come up with and design routes?
Routes are designed by the routesetter's imagination and any inspiration they get from outside sources, like climbing comps, outdoor boulders, or anything else they might see.
How many top rope routes? Lead? Both? Autobelays?
There will be approximately 30 lead-only routes, 25 routes that are both lead and top rope, and 45 top rope-only routes. There will also be 6 autobelays downstairs, 4 speed autobelays, and 5 autobelays in the kids area.
How many holds are there in the gym?
We bought approximately 16,000 holds for Plano.
What was the hardest part and best part about setting for the gym?
The hardest part is getting used to how tall the walls are. This affects the setting process because your rigging system is much more complicated. The best part about setting Plano is also how tall the walls are. We've never been able to set 60 foot resistance 5.12s with jugs the whole time. It's a new kind of hard.
Will there be a section for kids?
Yes! Our kids area has a small top out boulder, 5 autobelays, and 6 top ropes. It also features a ledge for rappelling, so we will be able to sign off on the Boy Scout Merit Badge.
Are speed routes permanent?
How big is the bouldering area?
Around 5,000 square feet of wall, and has about as much bouldering as the Ft. Worth gym.
How tall are the walls?
The bouldering walls are about 15 feet and the rope walls range anywhere from 25 to 58 feet.
Will it have a moon board or kilter board?
No current plans.
What is the highest grade on sport routes so far?
The hardest sport route is 5.14a.
Is there a set schedule for route changes? How often?
The Plano gym will have its own crew, so routesetting will take place at Plano 4 days a week; Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday.
Will there be a top out area?
No top out boulder. We didn't go for a top out area because it bottlenecks traffic with downclimbs and it can be seen as unsafe.
Will there be circuits?
Potentially, no solid plans (yet!)
Will you implement a route/problem feedback system?
A route/problem feedback system is in the works.
Will there be any slab?
We have about 15 routes that go through some portion of slab and about 1/3 of the boulders are slab.
Will Plano be part of the 12 hour comp?
Will there be any route-setting opportunities?
Yes, we have routesetting clinics every month or two for our members to participate in.
Any advice on how do I push myself to the next grade?
Don't be afraid to try boulders that seem out of reach. A good way to push yourself to the next grade is to try boulders you can't do. You'll be able to do some of the moves and you can then start working the moves you aren't capable of doing just yet. (not sure if this is actually a good answer or not, but this is how I do it)
For all things FITNESS related:
How many squat racks, if any? What kind of fitness equipment will it have?
There are Rogue attachments to do squats, but no free standing squat rack. It has a 24’ rig and very similar setup to Denton. We’ve got rowers, we’ve got stationary bikes, skiiers, ellipticals, treadmills, pull up rig, free weights, kettlebells, YOU NAME IT.
Will there be a grand opening comp?
There won’t be a comp day-of, but on the Friday before we will be hosting a Lady Crushers Bouldering Comp on July 12!
Will there be any olympic platforms or cable machines?
No current plans for olympic platforms, but maybe in the future! No cable machine plans right now.
Will there be a sauna?
Would you guys ever consider doing Crossfit classes?
We might consider doing Olympic lifting classes, but not “Crossfit” (if you catch my drift…)
Will there be a classic weightlifting section?
How often will there be ashtanga classes?
Right now, there is one Ashtanga class on the schedule, plus an open Mysore class on Sundays. You can always check out our website to keep up to date with yoga classes and the schedule!
And last but not least, for all things UNrelated:
Will there be early morning member hours?
Yup! We will have early morning hours just like our Ft. Worth, Denton, and Dallas gyms.
Yes and YES.
Founding member rates?
No special rate, but if you are already a member, your rates will be locked in and grandfathered in!
When did you start planning this gym?
Back in 2017!
Can i just live there?
Maybe if you made us an offer we couldn’t refuse..
Hangout areas for puppies/puppy friendly?
No puppy areas *at the moment*.
Will there be Lady Crushers on Sundays?
There will be! The first meetup will be Sunday, June 30th. The schedule is TBD, but the info is always updated on ladycrushers.com.
Are showers free?
Adult only hours?
Who will be heading the kids programs?
Mario Stanley will be the head coach for Team Summit, and Amanda Marder will be the head coach for climbing club and kids club.
What’s the parking situation going to be like?
We have a parking lot! Beautiful, spacious, clean white lines, well-lit, complemented by an aesthetic of wide open skies and fields of sunflowers.
If the gym was a hotdog, and it was starving, would it eat itself?
YES. With spicy mustard and SAUERKRAUT, I can’t express this enough.
When does it open!?
Saturday, July 13 - SEE YOU AT OUR GRAND OPENING PARTY!!!! Come hang out with us from 5-10pm! We’ll be hosting a huge party highlighting our members and community, local businesses will have booths, there will be food, beer, drinks, an acro jam, yoga, photo ops, live music, and OBVIOUSLY, climbing!!